Permanent Makeup Pigments Increase Risk of Allergic Contact Dermatitis, finds research

Permanent makeup is a cosmetic tattooing technique used for improving facial features and has gained popularity over the years. However, a new finding published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology suggested that the pigments used in these procedures may pose serious risk for allergic contact dermatitis (ACD). While it's well-known that decorative tattoos can sometimes trigger skin reactions, the same concern applies to the permanent makeup pigments that now warrants attention.

This study identified the pigments used in permanent makeup inks sold in the U.S. and examined their potential to cause allergic reactions. A total of 974 different permanent makeup inks were identified through online searches and analyzed their safety data sheets. The results revealed that 79 unique pigments were commonly found in these inks and on average, each product contained 4 pigments.

These pigments were divided into 2 main categories namely inorganic and organic. The study found that 20 of the pigments were inorganic metals, such as carbon, iron, chromium, manganese, and molybdenum, where the metallic pigments are still present in many inks, despite being uncommon. The remaining 59 pigments were organic dyes, with most being classified as azo, quinacridone, or anthraquinone dyes.

A meticulous literature review identified cases of ACD related to these pigments. The findings revealed that 10 of the 79 pigments were linked to allergic contact dermatitis in various reports. Both organic and inorganic pigments were among those associated with ACD. Ans, many cases involving permanent makeup reactions may go undiagnosed due to the challenge of identifying specific pigment allergens through standard patch testing.

The research highlights the need for greater awareness among both consumers and physicians, dermatologists, and other specialists when evaluating patients with unexplained dermatitis, especially if they have a history of receiving permanent makeup. Since standard patch tests may not always detect the offending pigments, more advanced or specialized testing might be imperative to pinpoint the allergen.

Overall, permanent makeup inks primarily contain organic pigments, though some metallic pigments are still present. Both types of pigments can cause allergic contact dermatitis by underlining the importance of recognizing the potential risks associated with these cosmetic procedures. With the increasing popularity of permanent makeup, further researches are warranted to fully understand the spectrum of allergic reactions and develop better testing methods for early diagnosis and prevention of adverse effects.

Reference:

Rigali, S., Cozzi, C., & Liszewski, W. (2024). Identification of the pigments used in permanent makeup and their ability to elicit allergic contact dermatitis. In Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (Vol. 91, Issue 3, pp. 474–479). Elsevier BV. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2024.05.067